DETERMINE THE PROPER SERIES SHANK REQUIRED
The PRIMARY RULE in selecting the proper series is to use the "K" series (¾ shank) whenever possible. Because of its longer movable sections, the "K" series shanks are more easily grasped and operated by the wearer. Furthermore, all of the "K" series shanks open three full sizes regardless of the finger size. The "K" series shank can be used on any ring the top portion of which is less than ¼ of the total circumference of the ring, if the top portion of the ring is greater than ¼ of the total circumference, but less than ½, then the "J" series (½ shank) should be used. The "J" series shank does the job as well as the "K" series shank, but because of its shorter movable sections, there is slightly less to grasp by the wearer in order to open. The very small finger sizes (3 to 4) of the "J" series open slightly less than the full three sizes that the rest of the "J" series and all of the "K" series shanks do.
USE DIAGRAMS TO DETERMINE PROPER SERIES NEEDED
The diagrams on pages 6 and 7 in the Finger Mate catalog are exact size drawings of the "K" series shanks in finger sizes from 3 to 13 showing the length of the bridge portion of the shank that can be cut to receive the cut-off portion of the ring being converted, if the cut-off top portion fits within the area indicated as the maximum limits on the diagram of the closed finger size shank needed, then the "K" series shank should be used. The diagrams have been drawn to allow sufficient metal outside of the maximum limit lines yet still above the actual hinge area for the jeweler to work conveniently. (If you print page 6 and 7 from the pdf make sure you specify "Page Scaling NONE" and "Choose Paper Source by PDF page size".)
If the cut-off top portion falls outside of the area indicated as the maximum limits of the "K" series for the closed finger size shank needed, the "K" series cannot be used. Measure in the same manner on the diagrams drawn for the "J" series shanks on page.
If the cut-off top portion now falls within the area indicated as the maximum limits for the closed finger size shank needed, the "J" series shank can be used. These diagrams have also been drawn to allow sufficient metal outside of
If, however, the cut-off lop portion still falls outside the maximum limit area, not even the "J" series, (1/2 shank) can be used. It is suggested at this point that the jeweler re-evaluate the ring in question and see if it can be cut off closer to the top so as to make it small enough to fall within the maximum limits. In many cases this means just sacrificing only a small portion of the design which, in any event, is usually not seen because it falls so far down on the shank that it is between the fingers. Or, explaining to the customer that one or more side stones
SPECIFYING "K" SERIES OR "J"
When ordering shanks, be sure to specify "K" series for ¾ shanks or "J" series for ½ shanks.
DETERMINE THE PROPER WIDTH SHANK REQUIRED
After first determining the proper series shank required (either “K” or “J”), measure the width of the existing shank in the area just above where the hinge of the Finger Mate shank will be.
Order by specifying the series required, "K" or "J" with the number following indicating the millimeter width of the shank.
Tapered shanks have tops that are wider than the bottoms. The shanks are supplied as a straight width bottom for you to match the taper of the existing ring. Note that only the top can be tapered (since it is made of solid wire). The bottoms, which are made of hollow tubing, cannot be tapered, blended or filed.
Note, however, that while all the tapered shanks are available in both the "K" and "J" series, most applications requiring tapered shanks usually require also the longer top portion available in the "J" series.
The 7 1/2mm top may be ordered in a cut top (style B) to save on metal charges, as pictured above.
The tapered shanks are ordered by specifying the "K" or "J" series required, the top and bottom widths and the finger size. For instance J 5 x 3 mm. size 6.
All of the tapered shank tops are made to be filed down and blended into the customer's ring.
COMBINING TWO RINGS ON A SINGLE SHANK
In selecting a shank on which to combine two rings, the same procedure is followed. The combined width of the two rings to be joined is measured. The shank selected can be slightly narrower than this combined width in order that the finished result of the two rings together on one shank will be neat and graceful.
UNDER-BRIDGES FOR HEIGHT, SUPPORT, OR SIZING
If the customer's ring is not as high as the Finger Mate top (2 mm.), or is too weak to support the operation of the mechanism, or the top cannot be properly sized first, an under-bridge may be required. The under-bridge is fashioned from the Finger Mate top.
DETERMINE THE PROPER HEIGHT SHANK REQUIRED
The standard height all Finger Mate shanks is 2 mm. regardless of width or series. However, a special HIGH TOP shank is available in the 2 mm. and 3 mm. widths in both the "K" and "J" series for those special applications where it is required.
The HIGH TOP shank is used in those applications where the end piece or design of the ring being converted is too high to accommodate the standard shank which is 2 mm. high all the way around. The HIGH TOP shank should only be used in those cases where it is obvious that the top portion of the standard height shank (2 mm.) will be too low to blend into the customer's ring properly. This does not mean that the HIGH TOP shank should be ordered in every case where the customer's ring exceeds 2 mm. in the area where it is being joined to the Finger Mate shank. On the contrary, a slight degree of blending is desired. Only when there is an obvious, large difference should the HIGH TOP be considered.
SPECIAL SHANKS (available for factory installation only)
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